How to spend 48 hours in Zagreb
If there were ever a city for a Goldilocks-inspired weekend break, it would be Zagreb. Not too big, not too small — just right. But as one of Europe’s best and brightest under-the-radar gems, how do you tap into its heart and soul? How do you pick and choose its must-see spots as a wide-eyed first-timer? Which of its niche museums will feed your insatiable appetite for all things quirky? Where do you go if you want to escape from it all, trade concrete for greenery and be at one with nature?
From its daily time-honoured traditions to museums that challenge convention, you can experience Zagreb’s happy-go-lucky energy in just 48 hours. All you need to do is plan ahead. Whatever brings you here; whatever your passions and reasons for travel in the first place, here’s how to feel the buzz of Croatia’s capital in just one weekend.
For the first timer
Day one: Lenuci’s Horseshoe & Upper Town
Every journey begins with a simple step (or in this case, about 75 steps). From art’otel Zagreb, start by walking towards Zrinjevac and to the top end of the Lenuci Horseshoe — a curvy collection of parks and promenades flanked by neoclassical blocks that date back to the 1800s. If you’re still weary from the plane, make a beeline for the always-excellent Botanical Gardens in the lower left corner to discover one of Europe’s quaintest hideaways. Otherwise, take your time ambling about each of the seven parks and absorb some of the city’s mellow energy.
Having rounded off Milan Lenuci’s masterwork of urban planning, head north along Gundulićeva street towards Lotrščak Tower to, quite literally, end your morning with a bang. Peeking out the fourth floor you’ll see the Grič Cannon, a local icon that’s fired once a day, every day, to signal midday. Around five times louder than Big Ben and one of Europe’s oldest daily traditions, it’s well worth timing your visit to witness this explosive piece of living history.
Spend the rest of the day exploring the pastel-coloured townhouses and enchanting cobbled streets of Zagreb’s Upper Town. Tkalciceva Street, crammed with traditional restaurants, seasonal markets and café terraces, is a must for anyone looking for a taste of local life, while Strossmayer Promenade is the best place for panoramic views and postcard-perfect selfies.
Day two: Ban Jelačić Square & Dolac Market
First stop, Ban Jelačić Square — the time-tested heart of Zagreb. A 300-metre walk from our front door, this huge, paved piazza is anchored with monuments from centuries past, most notably the Manduševac Fountain, after which (as legend would have it) the city was named.
Brief crash course of Croatian history complete, you’ll want to hit the markets afterwards — Dolac Market specifically. Under the cherry red umbrellas, expect to find everything from cured meats and olive oil to regional delicacies like štrukli and poppyseed cake at the city’s daily market. Smoked cheese is the best buy here — a hefty chunk only costs a couple of euros and tastes absolutely divine with fresh bread. Take your time to see, smell and taste Zagreb’s finest flavours, and maybe pick up a souvenir to take back with you too.
Local markets indulged, city icons snapped, and centuries of history walked, it’s time to wind down for the day. Head on up to the rooftop bar at art’otel Zagreb, treat yourself to a glass of Adriatic wine, and see out your final few hours amongst a sea of red-tiled roofs and gas lamp-lit streets.
For the curious collector
Day one: Heartbreak, illusions & the ’80s
If there’s one thing Zagreb isn’t short of, it’s museums that change things up. Case in point (and your first port of call), the Museum of Broken Relationships. Always heartfelt, sometimes humorous and often moving, Croatia’s shrine to all things loved and lost houses otherwise ordinary objects with huge sentimental value. Discover the stories behind everything from postcards and plushies to dog toys and scab wounds.
Heartbreak over, you’ve two choices for your next venue: the Museum of Naïve Art that’s found next door, or Zagreb 80s Museum just up the road. The former, an ode to Croatia’s self-taught painters, is a fantastically bizarre and, at times, psychedelic trip through the world of outsider art; the latter a nostalgic homage to a world of big hair, bigger shoulder pads and 8-bit era gaming. We’d highly recommend both, but if you’re short on time, pick the one that feels more your vibe.
Round off day one by walking down Ilica Street towards the Museum of Illusions. In rooms that seem to defy gravity and installations that’ll make you think you’ve been hitting the rakija too hard, it’s the perfect place to question everything you thought you knew about your senses.
Day two: Hangovers, chocolate & electricity
Feeling fresh? The Museum of Hangovers should be able to help if you’re not quite there yet. Equal parts informative and hilarious, this offbeat gem showcases the aftermath of nights best forgotten (or remembered, depending on your perspective).
For your next stop, take a quick stroll via Ban Jelačić Square and indulge your sweet tooth at Chocolate Museum Zagreb. A cocoa-lover’s paradise, it’s a delicious journey through the history and art of chocolate-making, from ancient Mayan rituals to modern confectionery techniques. There are, of course, plenty of samples to devour along the way too.
Hangover cured and chocolate devoured, your final museum celebrates Croatia’s best and brightest. Nikola Tesla Technical Museum, a 20-minute walk south along Savska Cesta and Franklina Roosevelta Street, is a hands-on tribute to all things electric and eccentric. Filling out a huge hall with every form of vintage transport imaginable, including turn-of-the-century trams and soviet-era lunar rovers, spend the rest of the day getting to know the country’s most influential citizen.
For the nature lover
Day one: Maksimir Park, Peto Jezero & Jarun Lake
Zagreb’s best asset might just be that it’s one of Europe’s leafiest capitals, making it the perfect place to embrace a little urban zen. Rise with the sun and take a 15-minute tram ride from Draškovićeva to Maksimir Park — the city’s oldest and grandest green space. Peppered with rolling hills, winding footpaths and cute cafés that date back to 1794, the English-inspired woodlands delight no matter what season you’re visiting. Do as the Croats do and stop by the scenic Vidikovac Café before you head to the upper right corner to find its most tranquil spot: ‘Peto Jezero’, or the Fifth Lake.
Maksimir Park meandered, hop on the number 5 tram to Jarun Lake next. Affectionately known as ‘Zagreb’s Sea’, this man-made lake is best known for its chain of verdant islands and June’s INmusic festival (headlined most recently by The National and Hozier). Rent a bike and cycle around the lake’s perimeter, try your hand at kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding on the calm waters.
As the day winds down, find a quiet spot on one of the lake’s beaches or bars to watch the sunset paint the sky in hues of orange and pink. Grab the number 17 tram from Vrbani back to art’otel when you’re ready to turn in for the night.
Day two: Medvednica Nature Park & Sljeme
Start by taking tram 14 to Mihaljevac, then change to tram 15 up to Gračani — your gateway to Medvednica Nature Park and the rolling hills that look over the city. Dotted with cosy mountain lodges and huge yew trees, it’s home to ski slopes, prehistoric caves, and over 42km of hiking trails.
Today you’ll be picking up the Leustek trail: a popular 6km, two-and-a-half-hour trek that’s about as scenic as they come. Head through Sljeme Tunnel, then follow the red and white signs on the other end to begin the hike. Take a quick breather halfway up at Adolfovac and keep climbing until you hit Grofica: Zagreb’s cosiest wood-fired cabin-come-restaurant, and the de facto end of the ascent.
Trail conquered, it’s time to embrace Sljeme, Medvednica Nature Park’s highest peak, in all its glory. Head straight to the open-air terrace atop the unmissable TV Tower for panoramic views and the occasional falconry display; otherwise, take in Zagreb’s best 1033m above sea from any of Sljeme’s lush meadows. Descend via Cable Car when ready, and head back to art’otel Zagreb on the 617 bus for a well-deserved soak in the bath and pampering courtesy of KEVIN.MURPHY.
