TASTE: An expert tea guide with YEZI Zagreb
by Sen Thackeray
Before “tea” was the internet’s favourite slang for a hot bit of gossip, it was (and still is) the world’s favourite drink (sorry, coffee lovers). This humble brew originated in China over 5,000 years ago and has passed through hundreds of cultures and histories to become a worldwide staple — loved for its taste and health perks.
It’s been the star of ancient rituals, the cause of some pretty intense trade wars, and the daily pick-me-up for, oh, just a few billion people. From the ancient tea ceremonies of Japan to the British afternoon tea obsession, every cup serves up a little piece of history, inviting us on a flavourful journey through time.
Let’s travel to Croatia’s capital, where art’otel Zagreb isn’t just any spot on the map — it’s where tea gets a stylish makeover at The Teahouse, tucked inside YEZI Restaurant & Bar. Unlike your grandmother’s tea party, this is where tradition meets the avant-garde, blending centuries of tea lore with a dash of contemporary flair. Davor Kalvi, Director at Tea Time one, has been key in curating YEZI’s signature tea selection, making sure that each variety reflects the depth, diversity, and richness of this popular drink.
His journey and love for tea started around 15 years ago, when he needed to find an alternative caffeine fix to coffee. This led him down the rabbit hole into tea’s vast universe, specifically to China and its 2,000+ varieties – each with its own vibe, flavour, and story. This revelation marked the beginning of a lifelong adventure that would see him explore the nuances of tea, from its cultivation and processing to its countless health perks and social significance.
When tasked with the tea menu for YEZI, Kalvi wanted to capture the soul of Asia’s tea scene. “We wanted to include the teas of China, Taiwan, and Japan, acquaint people with different processing techniques, types, and flavours, and adapt to Asian cuisine. Think of it as a tea tour without the jet lag — diving into the world of this drink with all its diverse flavours, techniques, and traditions, perfectly paired with YEZI’s dishes”, he adds.
For Kalvi, tea isn’t just tea. It’s a story of place and time, where the year it’s picked, the earth it’s from, and the hands that make it shape its character — much like a fine wine. He compares the teas of Japan and China, explaining how the unique climatic conditions, soil types, and processing methods in each region contribute to the distinct profiles of their teas. “The soil in China is black, red, or brown, and in Japan, the tea tree grows on rich volcanic soil,” he points out.
Kalvi’s got his own tea crushes in YEZI’s lineup, and he’s not shy about playing favourites. “First up, Wuyishan oolong because the complex oolong that grows on Wuyi Mountain and the mineral-rich stony soil gives it a taste that cannot be found anywhere else,” he shares. He also offers advice on how to best enjoy these selections, suggesting that many should be savoured solo to fully appreciate their complex flavours. That said, he provides detailed pairing recommendations for those rebels looking to match their meals with the perfect tea:
White Tea
Best paired with light salads or cakes, as stronger foods can overshadow its delicate flavour.
Oolong Tea
Complements sweeter white meats, fish, and Asian cuisine. And when consumed after a spicy meal, it can “cleanse” the palate. Lighter, less oxidised oolongs pair well with caramel desserts.
Black Tea
Ideal with fresh fruit, desserts, and red meats like lamb.
Green Tea
Japanese green tea is a perfect match for white fish, seafood, and sushi, while Chinese green tea goes well with chicken, turkey, and seafood.
Pu-erh
Suited for grilled meats, fatty foods, and aged cheeses, aiding in digestion after heavy meals.
Blooming Tea
Accompanies any dessert or sweet treat beautifully.
Herbal Tea
Pairs well with fruit and sweets for a refreshing finish.
Tie Guan Yin
Enhances the flavours of spicy food, white meat, and chocolate.
Da Hong Pao
Best with smoked foods, dark meats, and barbecue, offering a satisfying accompaniment.
Xihu Long Jing
Light and refreshing, it pairs well with fresh cheese, white meats, and vegetables.
Yellow Tea
Delicate enough for seafood and oysters, offering a subtle flavour enhancement.
But one special item on the YEZI menu has a particularly intriguing past worthy of a blockbuster — the Da Hong Pao. Hailing from the days of the Ming dynasty (for history buffs – this was China’s imperial power from 1368 to 1644), this tea carries the weight of centuries, representing the heritage that has long influenced the art of tea. “Da-Hong Pao, or ‘Big Red Robe,’ is a piece of history, a symbol of gratitude and rarity that has lived through generations,” explains Kalvi. Imagine a tea so valued that an emperor once exchanged his majestic robe for it, all in the name of his mother’s health. Now, that’s a cup of tea with a story to tell!
Da Hong Pao’s exclusivity is highlighted by the existence of just six original mother trees, guardians of its unmatched quality. Picture this: a mere 20 grams of Da-Hong Pao, plucked from these trees, once sold for a jaw-dropping $30,000 in 2005. “But since 2006, these six trees have stopped being harvested and are now protected, so the tea from these trees is no longer available on the market,” Kalvi adds.
Further cementing its legendary status, Da Hong Pao was chosen as a symbol of peace and friendship during President Nixon’s landmark visit to China, with Mao Zedong gifting him 200 grams (half of the whole crop that year)—a gesture that reinforced the tea’s worth, likening it to something more precious than gold.
Kalvi’s passion for bringing such prestigious teas to The Teahouse at YEZI Zagreb is undeniable. His dedication isn’t just about quality, but about turning every tea experience into a time machine. So, when you next cradle a warm cup of tea at YEZI, pause for a moment. Imagine the journey of flavours that have travelled through time, bringing the essence of diverse cultures and the character of history to your lips.
